Christopher Bailey is a pretty spry fellow, right? This is a point of contention, but it's evident that as seasons progress, he's got some force still humming along inside. His post-showing, infamous bow - that slightly froggy, "I'm-about-to-double-over-but-maybe-not" gesticulation must have roots in some great and unnamed inner character, right? In any case, the guys got heart. He has (or better still is) genius; he's chuffed. He's the man that Esquire has continually lauded with his - and I'm saying this moderately - "horological" achievements. Even Fast Company delivered their usual contextual banter on the subject, skipping out on his just mentioned second push into chronographs. Many people are taking notice and I would argue that this is why, nearly four months after his display at Hyde Park, I've yet to un-bookmark the collections livestream channel from Chrome. Maybe Cara Delevigne has a bit to do with this too, but I can't rob myself of all of those saucy deets just yet.

So, yes: Delevigne put into this tubey, cropped jacket is quite fine for your (and, admittedly, my own) dose of eye candy, but what exactly was Bailey trying to articulate in this collection? He suggests, according to style.com, that this years vision takes cue from a corset silhouette found deep in the annals of Burberry. Dope. So when its drizzled with a bit of 40s panache and mixed in with Baileys own interpretation of Anglophilic dominance,  we arrive at this number (seen below): 
This traditional trench in bone white is very against the grain, yet works so well. But the real standout detail in this look lies in the symmetry and cut of the sleeves. This shit is clutch! I'll be off looking for a menswear equivalent like, right now!
For warmer affairs and mild landscapes it seems, the collection showed promise in other respects. The overuse of jacquard, ruched and gathered for a variety of effects, and slick rubber shoulder accouterments (below) were a great contrast to the more traditional elements proffered in between these summery offerings. Many hues - ochres, pinks, cinnabar green, coral - were cast in high metallic sheen and tactfully added cohesion to an otherwise granulated (but still enjoyable) show of outerwear. 

I'll stop here to briefly mention the shows opener - this white on white, stately cowl that marched down the runway, and how it set a tone that was way past unforgettable. I will admit, it was enjoyable, but the crazy in me got its heart taken away with a more prodigious, niche offering like this oversized bomber in bronze.

It (at least to me) favors a bit of what Kawakubo showed last year for Comme Des Garcons F/W when she went all origami on the walkway. Unconventional aesthetes will find pleasure in asymmetrical darting on jackets and swimwear, gussied up translucence in accessories (handbags, purses, etc.) and the minimizing of waists. Kate King went in hard with this ombre number (below) - I'd be damned if that's not one of the sexiest coats I've seen in some time. 


So it seems that, even with the turn of seasons gradually giving way, the impression of the trench is never lost.  The entire presentation, whilst experimenting with fabrics and cajoling hearts (mine really), still felt unified and carried on with a natural progression that lies in tandem with the designer. The latter point, of course, is to be expected and even assumed. But surely, the biggest and if not the most important takeaway here lies in each collections inherent versatility. Autumn made fair use of that understated maturity that lies behind subdued patterns - here, we caught full wind of summery fanfare and the true-to-life, glitzy hues and daring fabrics that the warmer months allow.  If, we suppose, that versatility can be evolve without losing purpose, we would arrive at something similar to what is illustrated here. The soul of the greatcoat lives to ride on, and Bailey seems keen on keeping it that way.

Take care! 



Yes, I'm well aware - my Instagram feed is rife with pics and details of the ins and outs of good ol' ATL. That's understandable. For the most part, it feels like ages since I've posted on ADR, with fashion month already having said its goodbyes and everyone returning to the usual tumult of the fall season. Since I love you all (the readers) so much, I decided to break away from my usual posting routine (no reviews for the moment) to highlight the biggest, most absorbing and all-encompassing events of October - through my eyes of course. Jump in to see the latest! 
I'm a tailor now! Well, almost. What I'm actually doing is making (moderate) alterations to trousers that I've thrifted from the past month. My OOTDs on Instagram and Tumblr have probably been seen by many, but have you seen the details that make each look? Peep the pics below.
Moto-inspired look from Oct. 10
I have an insane fascination with this silk belt - it happens to be from Old Navy :)
It's looks great against these charcoal Nordstrom trousers right? 


The process goes as follows (roughly anyway): 1) With careful measuring, I cut off the desired length of pant from the hem (horizontally). What's the point of having a great fit if the pant is too long?. 2)Turning the trouser inside out,  I make several traces along each leg, marking the areas with which I plan to cut off later. 3) By hand (and by far the MOST time consuming endeavor on earth), I take thread to the pant from the hem, all the way up onto the ankle or (if I so choose) to the outer edge of the pocket. 4) With the final stitch in place, the project is completed when I cut the excess fabric from the entirety. I totally forgot to post pics of what the pants looked like before, but I'll save that for another date. More pics below.
Yesterday - Oct. 24. My "comfy" interpretation of an urban trad.
I believe that the greatest looks (for both genders anyway) have balanced elements of surprising detail and personal flair.  Yet again, the Old Navy belt makes a cameo - it's crazy versatile, especially against this striped oxford of mine. 

I would assume that most of you all are quite enamored with prints like I am, which works out well if you're in London today. There's a fabric sale of sample rolls and similar accouterments at 10 in the am (early, I know), but the promise of good food and music should take the edge off. Plus, it's Peter Jensen - check that shit out!  

I'd be a blockhead if I failed to mention Margiela's collab with H&M that dropped a few days ago. Glamour seems to have already outpaced me on the news but it's nonetheless exciting : Margiela x H&M items are already finding their way onto Ebay. Don't believe me? Peep this link and if your trigger finger manages to slip, I (would) hope that you're under the "Buy It Now" option :)
Also for your convenience: Styleite's entry on the collections full lookbook can be seen here

I'd like to thank you all (the readers) for all of the support - mostly derived from Instagram :). It's so very great in any respect and it really (truly) does mean a lot to me on the feedback that I receive regarding content and the blog overall. Next month will mark one full year of blogging on A Disheveled Refinement, which is surprising - we'll see how things turn out when that date comes. Again, the support is so appreciated! 
Take care! 

UP NEXT: Review: Burberry Prorsum RTW + "Self-Mades" Entry 1

By the title alone, I would assume that everyone is quite familiar with Leanne Medine and her up to snuff routines of "man repelling". For the rest of the unschooled chaps and posers of the blogosphere though, kindly follow this link - an introductory bio is quite needless for this woman and her insanely cool collab.

While the ""fancy flamingo" moniker did well in the spring to add hype to MR's collection, for this go round the girls are treated with a goofy rendition of Mr. and Mrs. baby blue slipper. Minimal stitching and the other usual details from Del Toro are of course interplayed. For the guys, we're able to get our Nick Wooster on with a serving of brightened camo wingtips (desribed as "grungy"). A red contrasted sole and stacked heel complete the offering. This is Medine's second offering of footwear with the Miami-based brand Del Toro and with a severely limited run of only 50 pairs, don't be surprised if you have to scour the realms of eBay to claim your tidbit of postpartum fashion month goodness. Pics of the rundown below. This shit is so clutch :D



SOURCE: WWD, Del Toro, Man Repeller