Review: Joseph Altuzarra Spring 2013 RTW

from Terrance Demons at Monday, September 24, 2012

Frills, fringes, a few French motifs intervolved and a hefty helping of last season's mathematical tailoring -  Joseph Altuzarra seems to be on a roll. Without totally dipping his toes into yet another Elizabethan era rework, the namesake continues to exhibit sartorial finesse with a campaign that's laden with maverick sensibility, but still unified in its vision for womenswear - one that plays catch with the feminine/masculine dynamic that underlines androgyny. So true to the theme, the designer derived inspiration from Virginia Woolf's novel turned film Orlando, with Tilda Swinton at the helm as the films lead. Her role, and Josephs ideal woman seemingly, are of the same breed, as he explained before the shows opener. That "ideal" woman possesses a "diminutive" head and gentle features that belie an inner, tender strength of character - a rather poignant collective for a showing that borrows its fair share from the men's side.
So what does Altuzarra have in mind in tailoring masculine tastes for feminine shapes? Blazers and jackets, for one, were given an original treatment of slits underneath the sleeves, allowing for a draping "cape" effect to intercede over the traditional over-the-shoulder routine. Some slashbacks could be seen as well - their ease of use now exerted onto oversized wrapped scarves of high embellishment. Waxed cotton trenches and fabrics leaning toward the 'Osh-Kosh' type gave room to the idea of railroad elements - an angle that became even more apparent as the collection drew on. Pareo style skirts, adorned with a bevy of frills and gilded detail, stood strongly against "engineer" utilitarian jackets - another notable addition to a showing that progressed unexpectedly well. 
Perfection. Well, maybe I'm stretching it a bit, but the detail on these silk trousers is fantastic. I can't forget my allegiance to the tailored black blazer look either. You can't ever argue with a classic.
Any review of the brand could not do without a mention of color and print - the silk trousers (above) are a strong example of just that. No truer form French inspiration lacks an artistic undercurrent and the brand seems to understand this notion, as art deco elements and Grecian-eastern influences proved to be a great solution for spring and brought an overall sense of relief (and balance) to the razor sharp tailoring that was illustrated earlier. Knee-high options for shoes were nonetheless entertaining, at least for everyone on Twitter at the time. My feed during the live stream was blasted with statuses referring to the "loopiness" of the gladiator sandals and over-the-knee boots (constructed of nappa leather) - this, according to Joseph, provided "an additional layer for the girls". Ultimately, this single detail was used to force perspective and antagonize the gentle repose of the feminine element. Put simply, it's damn sexy. 
 The above scalloped strapless dress is a personal favorite, at least for the current time. Couture-like elements provided a rich serving of evening wear, which is acceptable for a young designer. But it's the idea of covering and unconventional wrapping that becomes an enormous sticking point -a grand coeur for the sunsets of next spring. A banker collared shirting option that yawned softly towards the latter half of the showing illustrates that the brand has its sights set high - really, there are almost too many great details to pluck from this one. Seductive, forceful and feminine - I'm sure that this sums up the Altuzarra maxim completely.

 Enjoy! <3

 SOURCE: Style.com, Vogue Italia, Turkey Vogue

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