Review: Nicholas K Spring 2013 RTW

from Terrance Demons at Friday, September 07, 2012

Ever heard of Soylent Green? Neither have I, so don't feel bad if you're like me - I've never really found a fondness for sci-fi dramas myself. Nicholas Kunz seems to fancy that genre though - admittedly, as she explained yesterday, it served to inspire the theme of nomadic shepherdry and homelessness that underlined a new definition (or approach - your call) for boho-chic. So don't let the hijab-like covering in the first pic shoo you away; Kunz seems intent on adding a new face to draping and layering, which amounts to a collection that is ceaselessly devoid of anything too structured. A roaring delivery of 70s articulation may be just what we need to ring in the opening for NYFW. 
Its been ages since I've done this , but I'm finding this to be my (current) favorite womenswear look of the season.
Kunz get's a "Fully Disheveled" stamp of approval <3
The great disparity here is an "easy, technical" approach of Spring meets nomad - a retro, future proof one at that. Kunz opened up the show strongly with the above look, layering a silky wrapped ensemble under a leather utility jacket, slightly retaining its structure while playing it cool with sand, brown and taupe in the mix. Of course, no neutral hue can stand on its own (strongly that is) without an accompanying suite of fellows. Here, mauve, burnt orange, tonal blacks, steel blue of notable contrast and a light, measured dose of chartreuse eased their way onto pieces that still played tag with the idea of non-structure. Peep the stocking cap below - that vibe of vagrancy doesn't get any plainer that this.
There was, as expected, more oversized goodness to be had. The collection almost seemed to be in a headlong pursuit for that aesthetic, as the above cable-knit dress, some sportier classes of anoraks, paneled tops for both sexes and shapeless henleys cleanly added finish to trapeze pants and bottoms of sizable extent. Menswear, surprisingly, proved to be stoically modern. Rolled shorts, layered "Kunz-style" with accompanying biker-like shorts underneath, gave purpose to the whole segment altogether. Outerwear got turned on its head, with technical bombers and anoraks (again?) becoming capes in one instance and tied around the waist in another - bumish indeed, but culled and illustrated with finesse. The idea here, it seems, is more a proof-of-concept for the experimental man, rather than a set in stone go-to for vacay fiends and jetsetters. The sophists should be squeamish by now :D
To say that the brand is segmenting vision and value would preclude the idea of wearability. Attendees and followers of the brand should need no help in sampling any of the accessories offered, much less anything else. Billowy jumpsuits cast in silver (seen below) and more retro touches - wide-brimmed readers that were fitted to echo the overall theme and stained-glass, mosaic-ass necklaces (my fave accessory for the moment) - seemed to add more to the idea of personal largesse than simple nuggets of eye candy. Wedge selections of varying color (seen earlier), a few low buckled gladiator sandals and canvas options for men answered the call and were enjoyable for this season, quelling my usual harangues for footwear. If you haven't figured it out by now, here's the takeaway folks: car coats = out. Oh, and be sure to hit up your local fishery or sporting goods authority - I don't see anoraks stopping anytime soon.  

In encapsulating that savage abandon of homelessness that we're falling in love with - extracted from Fleischer's film no less - the idea of cultivation (design-wise) was respectable - even needed. With more room to grow of course, Kunz is showing us that thriving on experimentation is key in setting the bar for longevity. In this respect, calling someone a bum could actually be considered a compliment. And if you happen to test the waters with Nicholas K, be sure to bring your stocking cap <3 

Have a great day! 

SOURCE: ITALY VOGUE, Style.com


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1 Comment:

  1. Mouthwash said...
    September 9, 2012 at 5:21 PM
    I like it. I really like the use of leather - I am really loving leather this season, so I get excited whenever I see it.

    Those glasses are killing me! I would wear them in a heartbeat:if only they were tinted!

    Amber
    Amber's Mouthwash

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