Christopher Bailey is a pretty spry fellow, right? This is a point of contention, but it's evident that as seasons progress, he's got some force still humming along inside. His post-showing, infamous bow - that slightly froggy, "I'm-about-to-double-over-but-maybe-not" gesticulation must have roots in some great and unnamed inner character, right? In any case, the guys got heart. He has (or better still is) genius; he's chuffed. He's the man that Esquire has continually lauded with his - and I'm saying this moderately - "horological" achievements. Even Fast Company delivered their usual contextual banter on the subject, skipping out on his just mentioned second push into chronographs. Many people are taking notice and I would argue that this is why, nearly four months after his display at Hyde Park, I've yet to un-bookmark the collections livestream channel from Chrome. Maybe Cara Delevigne has a bit to do with this too, but I can't rob myself of all of those saucy deets just yet.

So, yes: Delevigne put into this tubey, cropped jacket is quite fine for your (and, admittedly, my own) dose of eye candy, but what exactly was Bailey trying to articulate in this collection? He suggests, according to style.com, that this years vision takes cue from a corset silhouette found deep in the annals of Burberry. Dope. So when its drizzled with a bit of 40s panache and mixed in with Baileys own interpretation of Anglophilic dominance,  we arrive at this number (seen below): 
This traditional trench in bone white is very against the grain, yet works so well. But the real standout detail in this look lies in the symmetry and cut of the sleeves. This shit is clutch! I'll be off looking for a menswear equivalent like, right now!
For warmer affairs and mild landscapes it seems, the collection showed promise in other respects. The overuse of jacquard, ruched and gathered for a variety of effects, and slick rubber shoulder accouterments (below) were a great contrast to the more traditional elements proffered in between these summery offerings. Many hues - ochres, pinks, cinnabar green, coral - were cast in high metallic sheen and tactfully added cohesion to an otherwise granulated (but still enjoyable) show of outerwear. 

I'll stop here to briefly mention the shows opener - this white on white, stately cowl that marched down the runway, and how it set a tone that was way past unforgettable. I will admit, it was enjoyable, but the crazy in me got its heart taken away with a more prodigious, niche offering like this oversized bomber in bronze.

It (at least to me) favors a bit of what Kawakubo showed last year for Comme Des Garcons F/W when she went all origami on the walkway. Unconventional aesthetes will find pleasure in asymmetrical darting on jackets and swimwear, gussied up translucence in accessories (handbags, purses, etc.) and the minimizing of waists. Kate King went in hard with this ombre number (below) - I'd be damned if that's not one of the sexiest coats I've seen in some time. 


So it seems that, even with the turn of seasons gradually giving way, the impression of the trench is never lost.  The entire presentation, whilst experimenting with fabrics and cajoling hearts (mine really), still felt unified and carried on with a natural progression that lies in tandem with the designer. The latter point, of course, is to be expected and even assumed. But surely, the biggest and if not the most important takeaway here lies in each collections inherent versatility. Autumn made fair use of that understated maturity that lies behind subdued patterns - here, we caught full wind of summery fanfare and the true-to-life, glitzy hues and daring fabrics that the warmer months allow.  If, we suppose, that versatility can be evolve without losing purpose, we would arrive at something similar to what is illustrated here. The soul of the greatcoat lives to ride on, and Bailey seems keen on keeping it that way.

Take care! 



2 Comments:

  1. Mouthwash said...
    I loved your review!!
    I always seem to get dressed by color, so that ombre trench is a definite favorite of mine. A white trench is something that I will only ever to dream of - bold? Yes. Beautifully structured? YES! An addition to my wardrobe? No. I'd be terrified. The moment a grey cat hair got on it, or if I ever contemplated sitting down...I would have a self-induced heart attack.
    I have a white leather purse, and I swear that thing is giving me wrinkles!
    Susan Partlan said...
    Enjoyable review! You kept me busy looking up words in the urban dictionary. That is a compliment :).

    I really love the bomber jacket.

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